Thursday, January 29, 2009

Singapura Cat and Kitten Information

Photo taken from Wikipedia
By: Mitch Endick

The Singapura cat is a small, well built cat that can take up to 2 years to reach full maturity. The eyes are characteristically large and are typically yellow, hazel or green in color. The coat of Singapura is short, fine and silky to the touch. Colors can range from light beige to dark brown. Males weigh in at about 6 to 8 pounds and females from 5 to 6 pounds. It can take as long as 2 years for the Singapura to fully mature.

The Singapura will show a curious interest in most everything you do and will try to help out. These unique cats are affectionate, alert and their intelligence is obvious in their behavior.

Brief History of the Singapura Cat

The Singapura comes from Singapore and is the Malaysian name for this island. Hal and Tommy Meadow brought this breed to the United States in the 1970s. By 1982, the Singapura was recognized as breed by most registries and clubs. The Cat Fanciers Association recognized the Singapura for show competition in 1988.

The ancestor of all domestic cats is the African Wildcat, the genus Felis Lybica. This genus is comprised of smaller cats. Cats are thought to have been domesticated with the advent of farming and the storage of grain. The grain attracted rats and other vermin which naturally attracted wild cats. As time evolved, certain of these cats were domesticated for the mutual benefit of both cat and man. The African Wildcat has certain features which is obvious in the housecat of today.

Feline Health Considerations

Cats who reside in the house should generally visit the veterinarian yearly, unless health problems are evident. Cats who enjoy the outdoors may need to see the vet as many as four times a year. When you take your cat to the vet, be sure to bring along a fresh stool sample so the vet can do a fecal exam to check for internal parasites such as tapeworm, round worm, whip worms and hook worms. The vet will also check for external parasites such as fleas, ticks and ear mites.

Any vet check should include a dental examination and a cleaning if necessary. Cats who are eight years of age or older are considered geriatric and additional blood and urine tests may be necessary to screen for any health problems. At about six months of age, the kitten should also be examined for sexual maturity and decisions about birth control should be made.

Behavioral Traits

Their voice is quiet
Active and playful

Singapura Cat Registries and Clubs

Singapura Cat Club
United Singapura Society
Cat Fanciers Association CFA
International Cat Association TICA
The Traditional Cat Association TCA
Canadian Cat Association CCA
The Australian Cat Federation
The American Association of Cat Enthusiasts AACE
American Cat Fanciers Association ACFA
United Feline Organization UFO
Cats United International

Kitten Care

Kittens are generally available and the price depends upon bloodlines color and markings. Unlike puppies, kittens should not be separated from their mother until twelve to sixteen weeks of age. Some very important developmental stages occur during this period including emotional, mental and health. Curtailing this development may lead to any number of medical and behavioral problems.

Kittens that are separated from their mother at too young an age often fail to gain weight fast enough, have immune system problems because they have not had enough mothers milk. The may also develop eating and eliminating problems, and can have problems socializing with other cats and with people.

Every cat and kitten is an individual so not everything in this information may be correct for your cat or kitten. This information is meant as a good faith guideline only.
About the Author
Mitch Endick is a short article writer for the popular framed picture and panorama site Detroit Skyline.com. He provides informative advice on purchasing beautiful, framed Detroit Skyline panoramas and pictures. Shop Detroit Skyline.com today. Article Directory: http://www.articlerich.com

Thursday, January 22, 2009

The Truth About Cat Stress and Idiopathic Cystitis In Cats

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Are you frustrated with constant bouts of cystitis in cats in your feline companion? Has your vet diagnosed him with idiopathic cystitis in cats? Have you wondered if cat stress has something to do with the recurring episodes of FLUTD? Read on for answers to your questions.

What Is Feline Idiopathic Cystitis?

Your cat shows all the symptoms of cystitis in cats. He strains to urinate, but doesn't pass much urine. His urine may be bloody. He's obviously in pain when he's using the litter box. And he may be urinating in places other than his litter box. 

But when your vet examines him and runs a urinalysis and a urine culture, there's no sign of a bladder infection. There's no bacteria in his urine, and bladder stones, tumors, and even an anatomical defect have all been ruled out. 

Feline idiopathic cystitis is the diagnosis when there doesn't seem to be any reason for feline urinary problems. It's very difficult to watch your cat suffer with FLUTD symptoms when there doesn't appear to be any reason for these cat urinary problems. The worst thing is that this condition is becoming more common in cats as time goes on.

Is Cat Stress Related To Idiopathic Cystitis In Cats?

Research is showing that this condition in cats is very similar to interstitial cystitis in people. In both cats and people, some sort of stressful event often happens just before the cat or person suffers another bout of cystitis.

Sometimes we don't realize how much stress our cats face. It may be hard to believe, but being an indoor cat is stressful for felines. We keep them inside for their own safety, but this is an unnatural environment for felines. They do like to prowl around, especially at night. Hunting for food provides lots of exercise that keeps them in shape. 

We also feed them the wrong type of diet, which is another stressor. Most dry cat foods are made mostly from corn, which is very high in carbohydrates. Too much of the wrong type of food leads to obesity, feline diabetes, and other health issues. 

Something that many cat owners don't consider is that the moisture level in dry cat food is extremely low. Cats are meant to get most of their water from their diet, which should be mostly meat-based. A cat who is always fed dry food is more than likely chronically dehydrated. Even if a cat who is fed dry food does drink water, it's hard for him to drink enough.

The problem with a dehydrated cat is that water doesn't pass through his body often enough to flush out toxins. His urine is also concentrated. Urine is caustic, and if it's too concentrated, it can irritate the bladder, which leads to cystitis. Concentrated urine also has high mineral levels, which can result in cat bladder stones, and urinary blockage in cats.

This type of stress is low-level, but it can lead to problems over time. 

Your cat may be facing other types of stress. Cats are very set in their ways, and any kind of change can be upsetting for them. Moving to a new home, remodeling, adding another person or pet to the household, even a change in the weather, can all be stressful for your cat. Your cat may be having problems with another cat in the home, too, especially if the other pet is more aggressive and seems to bother him a lot.

Reducing Cat Stress

It's been shown that reducing stress in cats does reduce the frequency of cystitis in cats. It's also important to feed your cat a diet more naturally suited for felines to reduce stress on his body.

You may also want to consider trying a natural remedy for cat bladder infection. The incidence of feline urinary problems can often reduced by giving your kitty a cat uti remedy that contains herbs and homeopathic remedies known to cure bladder problems.

By taking these steps to help your furball, you can solve the problem of idiopathic cystitis in cats.
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Darlene Norris has combined her long-time interest in natural healing with her experience working at a vet clinic to bring you her new website, Natural Pet Urinary Health. Learn how to prevent idiopathic cystitis in cats, and find the best place to buy herbal pet remedies at http://naturalpeturinaryhealth.com

Tuesday, January 20, 2009

Dog Health Problem Worm Control

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One of the health problems that badger dogs the most are parasite problems. Dogs suffer from both internal and external parasites. Out of all the parasites that affect dogs hugely, the tapeworm and the roundworm are the two most troublesome ones.

Tapeworms occur in dogs of all ages although the older dogs are more likely to get attacked by tapeworms than the younger puppies. The life cycle of the tape worm is dependent on two hosts, namely, the dog and the dog’s fleas.

So how will you understand whether your dog has tapeworm or not? There is one common way of getting to know about it. And that is noticing whether your dog is frequently licking its anal regions or not. If you see that your dog keeps on licking its anal regions all the time, chances are that he has tapeworms. Tapeworms look like tiny rice grains in feces and they can be easily spotted if your dog has them.

When you are sure that your dog has tapeworms, do not worry too much. This is not a major problem and can be easily cured. In fact, modern vets can suggest treatments for tapeworms which are really simple and do not even need fasting before the intake of the medicines. These treatments can help your dog stay healthy and without tapeworms. They are generally without any side effects but in some dogs, these medicines cause vomiting.

The tapeworm is something that generally affects adult dogs. The roundworm, however, is just the opposite. It is more common in puppies. The way in which puppies get roundworm is through fecal contamination. In fact, there are numerous puppies that are born with roundworms that get transferred to their body through the uterus of their mothers. These worms enter the unborn puppy’s body through the mother’s blood stream. They stay in an inactive state as long as they are in the mother’s tissues but as soon as they enter the puppy’s body, they get activated by the pregnancy hormones.

The only way to avoid roundworms in newborn puppies is to use a good and safe anthelmintic when the mother is pregnant. However, this medicine must be used in the early part of the pregnancy. Another thing that dog owners can do is to treat all the newborn puppies three to four days after birth and give them another dose of the de worming before they leave the kennel. No matter how many times the puppy has been de wormed prior to its coming to your house; you have to de worm it on a regular basis. De worming must be done regular, every three to four weeks until the puppy reaches the age of six months.

Once the puppy reaches adulthood, it builds up its own defenses. Usually, an adult dog does not require regular de worming sessions. However, as a responsible dog owner, you must keep on checking for roundworms regularly because they are not visible in the feces and they might attack the dog anytime.

In order to keep your dog healthy, it is best to give your dog proper de worming treatment every six months. This treatment keeps your dog healthy and happy and keeps you free from any anxiety related to worms. 

About Author Kelly Marshall :
Article by Kelly Marshall of http://www.ohmydogsupplies.com Oh My Dog Supplies - where you can find http://www.ohmydogsupplies.com/dog-supplies/dog-clothes cute dog clothes in over 150 different styles
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Friday, January 16, 2009

How to Tame Wild Kittens

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By LeAnn R. Ralph

Over the past several years, the wild mother cat who has taken up residence in our barn in rural Wisconsin has given me many opportunities to figure out how to tame wild kittens. The mother cat always hides her kittens very well, and then, when they are big enough to leave the nest and are big enough to eat kitty food, she brings them out and expects me to feed them.

When the wild mother cat brings her kittens out of the nest, it is the first time in their lives they have seen a human being, and they tend to be hissing, spitting bits of fluff that really look as though they mean business. And since they already have teeth and claws, I would rather not push the issue. I also would rather not let them remain wild, living in my barn, having kittens of their own. Six kittens, within a year or two, could turn into 56.

As of early 2005, the wild mother cat has had more than 20 kittens in our barn, and I have managed to tame them and to find homes for most of them (unfortunately, several were lost when the wild momma kitty took them out to teach them how to hunt).

Here are some tips for taming wild kittens:

1. Buy some canned kitty food -- In my experience, kittens are always hungry and are always interested in canned kitty food. I have noticed it doesn't matter what brand, just so long as it has fish in it. The smell of fish seems irresistible to kittens.

2. Let the kittens smell the canned kitty food -- Open the can and then try to get as close to them as possible so they can smell the food. Once they get a whiff of it, and this is especially true of younger kittens that are anywhere from four weeks old to a few months old, they will be so interested in the canned kitty food they will forget (somewhat) that you are right next to them.

3. Use a fork (or spoon) to scoop out some of the food and let the kittens eat off the end of the fork (spoon) -- This is an important step. Do NOT put a forkful of food down and then back off. From the very first, hold the fork toward the kitten and let the kitten eat off the end of the fork. Stick to your guns and do not give up. If the kitten wants canned kitty food, the kitten MUST eat it off the end of the fork or the spoon. This is the first step in getting the kitten used to being close to you and in growing accustomed to your hand coming closer. This will be useful later on when you are trying to pet the kittens. After the kitten has eaten food off the end of the fork/spoon, THEN you can put a little food down for the kitten to eat on its own.

4. Repeat step 3 every time you offer the kittens some canned food -- At first, the kittens are going to be cautious about your hand coming toward them. The fork with the food will help to overcome that resistance. After you have done this a couple of times, the kittens will look forward to eating off the fork and will start to lose their fear of you and your hand.

5. Stay right there while the kittens are eating -- After you have put out some canned food for the kittens, stay there and don't move off. Let them eat with you next to them. This will help teach them to associate human beings with "good things."

6. Carefully start to pet the kittens -- After feeding them a couple of times without trying to pet them, which will begin to teach them that they can trust you, put food out and let the kittens start to eat. Then slowly reach down and pet them a little bit. Continue to sit there while they finish eating.

7. Carefully start to pick up the kittens -- After you can successfully put out food and remain there while the kittens eat and can pet them a little bit, try picking up a kitten. If you can, grasp the kitten by the scruff of the neck. This is how mother cats carry their kittens, and when you do this, the kitten will go limp. Hold the kitten against your shoulder and talk softly to it, but don't say "Hi kitten" or anything starting with an "h" sound. To a kitten, this sounds like a cat hissing, and the kitten will become frightened. Hold the kitten for a minute or so and then, grasping it by the scruff of the neck, set it down. After you have done this several times, the kitten will realize that no harms come to it from being picked up and handled.

Depending upon the age of the kittens and basic personality traits, the whole process, from starting with canned kitty food on the fork to being able to pet them and pick them up, could be accomplished in a few days or it might take a few weeks. Eventually, the kittens will know that people mean good things, and when they see you coming, they will come running to meet you. It has been my experience that cats quickly recognize when a situation is to their advantage, and once the kittens know you are a source of good things to eat and that you mean them no harm, they will want to be friends.

About Author LeAnn R. Ralph :
LeAnn R. Ralph is the author of the books "Christmas in Dairyland (True Stories from a Wisconsin Farm)" and "Give Me a Home Where the Dairy Cows Roam." You are invited to read sample chapters and to sign up for Rural Route 2 News, the FREE monthly newsletter from Rural Route 2. Visit -- http://ruralroute2.com
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Tuesday, January 13, 2009

Tips for Dog Grooming at Home

Photo by : ChrisY

If you have a pet then you will be responsible for taking care of him, and one of the most important aspects of health & care is dog grooming. All grooming needs quality combs, brushes and clippers that can be found at all pet supplies stores.

If you take your pet to a professional dog grooming service center then it can sometimes be expensive. It is not something that cannot be done at home i.e., it is possible only if you have the time and the equipment. The first and the foremost thing is that you need to be extremely patient with your dog during the dog grooming session and don’t forget to reward him once it is over so that you don’t face any problems the next time around.

The second important thing is buying the right pet supplies to enable grooming at home. The different types of pet supplies that you will need for grooming includes:

• Bathing accessories: This will mostly include hair dryers, shampoo, conditioner and towels
• Clippers: This will consist of pet grooming tools like turbo clippers, clipper kits, combs, trimmers etc.
• Others: This can include an array of pet grooming tools like nail grinders, FUrminator de-shedding tools, Styptic powder, Matbreaker dematting tool, dematting combs, dematting rake, flea comb, area slicker brushes, undercoat rake, etc.

Dog grooming is important for all pets but more for dogs and cats with a lot of hair. Dogs like German Shepherds have double coat and experience a lot of hair fall and hence should be groomed regularly. Some of the important parts of the body that need to be cleaned and groomed include the skin and ears and it is a must to clip the nails for cats and dogs.

Cleaning the ears of dogs is an integral part of dog grooming because of the fact that they get a lot of infections through their ears. Dogs with droopy ears are highly susceptible to different types of ear problems and infections caused by ear mites, waxy ears, and fungus. You need to check the ears of your dog once every week and clean them as well. Another important part of dog grooming is clipping nails and this is mostly done for dogs, as their nails can grow unusually big. Although they will never hurt you with their nails but are quite capable of scratching you while playing. You need to clip nails once every 3 weeks.

Let us consider some other pet supplies you may need:

• Treats: some dogs don’t like having a bath or being clipped, sometimes it’s a good idea to have a treat to distract your dog.
• Dental toothpaste: this is an often-overlooked necessity when buying pet supplies. Dental problems in cats and dogs are one of the most expensive veterinarian costs during a pet’s life.
• Toys: a great hide bone or Kong toy is a great idea when buying pet supplies. Anything to distract a dog will always help, especially if they playful by nature.

The one thing that most pets hate and dogs even more is bathing. Except for the Retrievers almost all dogs hate taking a bath and cats will always shy away. But bathing is also an important part of dog grooming. Before you give your pet a nice bath, ensure that you have the necessary pet supplies like shampoo, conditioner etc.

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If you need further information on pet supplies including dog collars and dog beds visit our on line store. We also have a great section on dog grooming for all sizes and breeds. 

Thursday, January 8, 2009

Having Cats And Dogs At Home

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If you are a pet lover and a owner of cat and dog at home then you should read this article by Jess Shaw

The saying "fighting like cats and dogs" didn't come up as superstar's idea of a hoax just for cartoons (Tom and Jerry comes into brains). Dogs are regularly territorial and will combat not just new cats but other new dogs as well. They cultivate to celebrate their territory and will attack somebody who invades their span. Cats have the same tendencies and even if they are lesser than to dogs, they will abandon and fight for their territory.

Most pet lovers who have both a cat and dog have a hard time making their pets coexist with one another. The everyday reaction to this is separating the two pets and making surefire they won't encounter. This is not sincerely a workable emulsion to this snag as, both pets tend to wander around the house and there will come a time when they will collect. This would also trigger a lot of shattered time if you have to allocate twofold the time for playing with your pets. Another reaction would be to impound both pets but this practice is frowned ahead by most pet lovers. The best thing to do is to prepare the cat and dog to coexist peacefully. In this item is a chain of steps to sentence harmony between cats and dogs.

Perhaps the hardest thing for pet lovers to do is the introduction. Introducing a new pet requires both time and patience as, both cats and dogs requires time to adjust to something new. Both cats and dogs take up to 30 years to adjust. It is even longer if you have adult pet, but with modest retraining you can lecture your old dogs and cat's new tricks.

The first stride is agreement. This is vital especially for the dog which is mostly the provoker in this kind of spot. You have to tutor your dog to obey when you say "no." This could be done by viewing him some handle and every time he looks at it you say "no" you impede him from ingestion it. Do this every day and reward him every time he obeys.

While burden this with your dog, make reliable the cat and dog are solitary from one another, allowing your cat to wander around the house. Cats adoration to journey and this will make her trail scattered in your home. After burden this, link your cat in one room and let your dog wander around the house sniffing for the cat's sniff. This will make your dog acquainted to your cats smell and instruct the dog that the cat is part of the household.

Once you've done this for about a week, it's time for them to see one another physically. This part requires that you have somebody to help you. Have someone who can foothold your cat securely and that knows how to respond quickly and get your cat to shelter if the dog is showing aggressiveness. Your part is to be able to restrain your dog and making steady that if he starts lunging for your cat, you'll be there to prevent him.

Dogs mostly birth barking when they see some other animals in their territory, eager to scare them away. They won't actually pounce at something immediately. Once he starts barking, this is where the respect part starts to come in. Say "no" and make him reach that the cat is also a pet.

If your dog starts to calm down when in the aura of the cat, then it's the time to let him sniff the cat. Once your dog starts to choose not to bark at your cat you know that you've done the introduction part successfully.

The final movement is making effective that both pets have the time to coexist. This part is usually the cat's liability. Cats have the leaning to be remote and delay away from the dog and other people. It's not because they are scared of the dog but more because it's their life to be deserted. Be sure that your dog sees your cat as regularly as workable. You can allocate sometime nightly where you can do some activities with both your cat and dog. This will permit them to play with one another and you'll have the confidence that they won't gain fighting when they're unsupervised.

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Friday, January 2, 2009

Super Cat Urine Prevention Tips

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Many times cat owners are at a loss as to why their cat doesn't use their litter box. Here are some great tips that can help you solve the problem.

The litter box is the first thing you should check. It should be in a quiet, private area of the house. Many people put them in their basements and leave the door open a little as this not only creates a private environment but also keeps odors to a minimum in the rest of the house.

Some use a closet but if you do this be sure and keep the box clean to reduce odors in such a confined space and don’t forget to leave the door open!

Another placement possibility is under a table. Many people find a place without carpeting is best from a maintenance point of view as tile or cement is a lot easier to clean.

Ask yourself if you changed the litter box in any way:

* Has the box been moved to a high traffic area recently?

* Does the box need cleaning?

* Is a new litter being used or does it have too heavy a scent (clumping and unscented is best).

* Has the depth of the litter in the box changed? Some cats like their litter deep, others shallow.

* Your cat has outgrown the box and needs a larger one.

* The box is too hard to enter and exit. This can be an issue for older cats.

Do not put food and water near the litter box. Cats like these two areas kept separate (don’t you?).

If your cat has picked out a particular room to soil try closing the door to that room if you can or cover the target area with furniture.

Put a bowl of food over the target area as cats like to keep their eating area away from their “bathroom”.

Take your cat to the Vet on a regular basis.

If you have more than one cat get each one of them their own litter box.

Have you recently moved? A cat might smell an area where the previous owner’s cat urinated.
Let the cat alone while it goes so it can have some privacy.

If it is a new cat in your home it could take from three to eight weeks to get adjusted to the new 
environment. Be patient!

Was there a recent addition or loss to the family? A new baby, spouse? This is usually temporary until the cat adjusts to the change in their environment.

A change in your schedule can throw off your cat's schedule as well and cause problems. Try and phase in major lifestyle changes gradually.

NEVER EVER punish the cat by kicking, hitting, chasing, screaming or rubbing their nose in their urine (remember the smell doesn’t bother them). Cats cannot make the cause and effect connection like we can so punishment after the fact is useless and will only make matters worse.

Cats are naturally very clean animals and they know where they are going. It is important to remember this and try and help your cat overcome any stress or anxiety they might be having in a caring and loving manner.

About the author:
For expert advice on cat urine problems and solutions visit www.cat-urine-remover.com 
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